Throwing Workshop

I don’t know what I can write about actually throwing as it seems to be a skill that is largely down to individual preferences/ways of working, so until I have tried lots of ways of working, I will leave that bit out! Things I learned:

You need a clay which is plastic (or flexible!)

The clay needs to be ‘wedged’ and portioned before working.

It is essential that the clay is centred before trying to pull up the sides, otherwise it will be thicker on one side that the other, twist easily and just generally make a rubbish pot!

The base should be 0.5 – 1cm thich – check with your thumb tip or a needle.

when ‘pulling up’, you aren’t actually pulling – you are squeezing your fingers together, keeping them the same distance apart and moving them slowly upwards. Make sure you don’t pull your hands towards your body as you lift – this will also ruin your pot!

To get the pot off, use the wooden tool to create a little dent for the wire to go into, then splash water on your wheel in front of the pot to enable it to slide, push the wire down against the wheel behind your pot and move it towards you, keeping it as flush to the wheel as you can. Do this in one movement – don’t wire twice. gently move onto a board and cover in plastic to dry slowly.

Farnham Sculpture Park

For my Locus project I will be making sculpture for an Arts and Crafts garden. Having researched local Arts and Crafts gardens, there are 3 within a reasonable travelling distance – Dyffryn Gardens (National Trust property – open to the public all year), High Glanau Manor and Wyndcliffe Court (both members of the National Garden Scheme and open to the public a couple of days per year or by appointment). Both High Glanau Manor and Dyffryn Gardens have responded to my emails and are happy for me to visit and answer any questions I have in order to be able to design site specific sculptures for them (I have made it clear they are under no obligation to buy the finished work unless they want to!) but I haven’t yet heard back from Wyndcliffe Court.

I would prefer to rule out Dyffryn, as although it was remodelled in the Edwardian era, it doesn’t shout Arts and Crafts to me! There are garden rooms and terraces which you might expect of an Arts and Crafts garden, however they also have a lot of formal bedding which is one of the things the Arts and Crafts movement was trying to get away from, and the architecture of the house is certainly not Arts and Crafts. Both High Glanau Manor and Wyndcliffe Court are both considered excellent examples of Arts and Crafts architecture and gardens (Wyndcliffe Court was the setting for the recent BBC series The Victorian House of Arts and Crafts) so they would be my preferred locations. Until I hear back from Wyndcliffe Court I can’t make any plans as I don’t know what size the sculpture will need to be, the material, surrounding plants, setting, lighting, colour etc… so in the meantime, I went to Farnham Sculpture park to have a look at the some sculptures and see what inspired me.

I have an idea of using seeds as the subject as I like that they can be seen as a metaphor for the circle of life and for migration, however what plants, and therefore seeds grow where my sculpture will be, I don’t currently know. As such, I just kept an eye open for sculptures which inspired me from a making point of view – materials or combinations of materials, processes, positioning/setting, scale etc…or that were in-keeping with the ideals of the Arts & Crafts movement – natural themes, harmony, native species (although what is considered native to Britain is very debatable as seeds have spread all over the world and what we think of as native could have come from anywhere – I will write a blog post on this research later on!)

I have typed a lot and there are a lot of photo’s, so I will just write a few words underneath each photo to explain what interested me about it!

Bases for large metal sculpture – must be sturdy!

Glass – gorgeous organic shapes but needs to be set against the sky so sunlight is always shining through it, otherwise the properties of the material is wasted.

Glass again but interesting textures

Glass again and lovely organic forms. About human height. Another idea for sturdiness – sculpture in a bowl which can be filled with stone and/or water to weight it down.

Giant seed sculpture of the seed of the tree under which it sits. Using the natural properties of the seed on which the sculpture is based to maximum advantage – the seed is heavy and plants it in the earth (echoed with the sturdiness of the sculpture), while the lacy ‘wing’ helps it drift away from the shadow of the parent tree and creates the beauty and interest in the sculpture.

Ceramic seed forms – in case of conker trees! Would be fun to make.

Surface texture, pattern and patination of bronze.

Positioning against tree line

Receptacle for water which creates reflections and light in a semi-shaded area

Close up of the sycamore seed

Ceramic collars on top of each other, secured by central pole. Subject of decoration more important than actual structure. Different way of looking at things. Could have Arts and Crafts style designs and prints.

Simple but beautiful and lets your imagination get to work.

Bubbles inside bubbles inside bubbles. How did they make it?! Speak to Martyn!

As above!

Why glass needs to be in a clearing with a background of sky and sun!

Seedy forms

Seedy forms

Glass Fusing Workshop

To fuse glass, first you need to cut it. Clean glass with methylated spirits – a glass cutter will slide on any greasy spots and won’t cut a clean line. Draw your template & place it underneath your glass. Hold the glass cutter vertically and place it on the glass above the line you want to cut, moving the ruler or guide to the glass cutter, otherwise you won’t be lined up properly. In one single movement, press down hard & follow the line – it shoudl sound like fingernails down a blackboard! To break the glass, use the blue pliers, making sure the red diamond is on the top so the glass snaps downwards , not up!  Smooth the edges with either a sanding stone under water in a bucket or on the sanding machine.

Either paint on your design, or make whatever you are going to trap in the glass. Copper will discolour and go red, other wire will go black. Organic materials can be dipped in paint, then trapped – the organic material will burn away, but the paint will remain. Make sure paint is dry before positioning the top glass – wet paint will cause steam, bubbling and cracking in the kiln.

Check workshop guides on moodle for firing temperatures and times.

Screen Print Workshop

Find a screen & check the board to make sure it isn’t reserved by anyone. Clean it with the squirty spray & brush in the wet room, blast it with the medium setting on the pressure washer (not the highest setting as it will tear through the screen!) Make sure every trace of the green stuff is removed.

Write your name & the date on the board next to the number screen you have. It will be yours for 3 weeks.

Put fresh photo emulsion on the screen using the trough – make sure you use the right size trough – should be between 1 & 2 cm in from frame. Hold trough against screen 1 – 2 cm from the bottom & slowly tip until the emulsion is in contact with the screen all the way along. at this angle, slowly and smoothly pull the trough up the screen until you are 1 – 2 cm from the top & tilt back so the fluid is no longer in contact with the screen. Pour any remaining fluid back in bottle & clean trough & side bits thoroughly in sink. Allow screen to dry in the drying cabinets for 40 mins.

In the meantime, draw your design on normal paper, tracing paper or the special screen printing plastic film with a smooth & a rough side. Use indian ink or super-saturated black permanent markers only – if you don’t use good enough quality ink, it will be patchy.

Place your design in the exposure unit, position your screen over the top, set the timer for 4 mins & once exposed, rinse in the wet room again on the medium setting, both sides. Dry completely – if you can’t leave it overnight then dry it by the heaters but make sure it is completely dry.

Clamp screen in press, use the brown plastic tape to cover the edges & any patches where the green fluid has missed. Mix your paint – half acrylic, half screen printing medium. Blob it on your screen about an inch above your image making sure you use enough to pull a few prints. Switch the vacuum on to make sure your screen is in contact with the surface you’re printing on & do a trial pull on the acetate sheet – this will also be used as a placement guide when printing on paper. Pull at the angle shown in the photo below – not straight up or too horizontal – this angle will give a good print.

Make sure you clean all the equipment thoroughly after use. The screen, once rinsed of all screen printing paint, can be left for the next user to clean the green stuff off – don’t forget to wipe your name off the board.

Slip Decorating Workshop

This method is suitable for stoneware and teracotta clay. To decorate clay with slip, the clay should be damp or leather hard – if it is dry, the slip won’t bond & it will crack off. The recipes for mixing the coloured slips are on the wall by the sink in the glaze room. There are many techniques you can use to decorate with slip – painting, sgraffito (scratching), sponging, dragging, swirling colours together, all sorts! If layering, allow each layer to dry a bit before applying the next, especially if working on a 3d piece as the moisture from the slip will re-soften the leather hard clay & it may collapse.

Locus Project Proposal

Locus Presentation

I would like to make garden sculpture in the Arts and Crafts style on a theme of seeds and seed heads.

I want to make garden sculpture because it combines my love of gardening with my love of making. I was particularly inspired by the work of Simon Gudgeon at Chelsea – that sparked the dream!

I want to make sculpture bearing the Arts and Crafts Movement ideals in mind. Traditional craftsmanship, designs based on nature, not overly fussy or ornate, harmonious, local & natural materials.

I want to base my designs on seeds and seedheads because I love that they can be used as a metaphor for both the cycle of life and for human migration – seeds are the end and the beginning of life for annual plants and they can be dispersed in so many different ways, for different reasons, over varying distances and have been since the beginning of time – as with humans. I have done a lot of research into this and will make a separate blog post about this soon.

In the presentation Pip suggested that my next step needs to be going out and getting in touch with the owners of gardens that are open to the public and seeking a commission, or at least somewhere that I can design a site-specific sculpture for, so that is what I shall do!

I will also visit sculpture gardens such as Yorkshire Sculpture Park and the Barbara Hepworth Garden for inspiration.

Some materials are more suited to outdoor sculpture than others, and if the sculpture is going to be site specific, then I can’t tell what material will be most suitable until I find the site. For example glass would be wasted in a dark shady corner – it needs light behind it to show it off to its best advantage. As such, I will take part in all the workshops until I know more.

 

 

Collaborate: Ceramics Brief

Day 1:

The first day of our Ceramics assignment was to head off around campus finding and photographing interesting shadows that we found inspiring as a group. Here are a few of my favourites:

I like this one because the shadow in isolation looks like a cityscape or a castle rather than an egg box like piece of packaging. I like the shadows cast on the piece by the texture too.

A random scrumpled bit of duct tape makes fascinating shadows

I love the simplification of form in the shadow

Shadows that totally represent the original object – couldn’t be anything else.

Distorted shadows

Double light source, duplicating the shadow and making it look like a whole jungle rather than a single plant.

We then spent an hour making sketches of these photo’s:

Then the afternoon cutting them out and making 3d maquettes with card:

I enjoyed how when I abstracted this part of the plant shadow and made it a 3d maquette, it created it’s own range of interesting shadows.

Day 2:

On day 2 we were taught some clay working methods – slab building and joining with cross-hatching and slip, coiling and extruding in the morning and pinching in the afternoon.

This was my attempt at slab building, based on the plant shadows, using the cross hatching and joining with slip method. It worked – when fired it stayed in one piece! I like the simplicity of the piece and the range of shadows that it can make (see below)

This piece was made from extruded clay from my imagination rather than being based on a photo of shadows, but I could see the potential for it to cast interesting shadows.

In the afternoon we were shown how to make pinched pots using oyster sized lumps of clay, pinched into rounds and used to build a vase. Had we had time, we would then have smoothed the surface with a kidney to create a tall vessel with a handle of our choice. It was important to smooth afterwards rather than as you go along in order to retain the strength in the bottom of the pot.

Lawrences pot

Jacks pot

Wojciechs lattice bowl

At this point I fell ill with a chest infection, so we were unable to continue working collaboratively in our own time. I popped back in on the following Thursday afternoon to take some photo’s of the finished pieces in the photography suite with directional lighting to enhance the shadows and to make a still life. Unfortunately I couldn’t find Wojciech’s pieces, but I incorporated 1 of Jacks and 2 of Lawrences:

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It’s a shame we didn’t have the chance to work more collaboratively – it would have been good to discuss a composition of 4 components that would come together as a single piece, however I do like the contrast of shapes and shadows that our pieces created – all so different! Organic, angular, smooth, spikey, repetitious, singular.

I would have liked to have had the opportunity to discuss and explore the hidden symbolism of artefacts in the ‘Vanitas’ style of still life with my group and considered making a group of objects that had a hidden meaning, for example the skull, extinguished candle or hourglass are traditionally used as a reminder of the transience of existence, downward pointing triangles representing femininity, butterflies representing the human soul etc…

I would also have liked the opportunity to discuss the possibility of making a single group piece out of several components to cast shadows on each other rather than on a flat surface.

Collaborate: Interior Design/ADT Brief

The Interior Design/ADT brief was to create 2 x A2 interior collages using Photoshop reflecting 2 opposing words which were to be drawn out of a hat. Our words were Global/Parochial. Our team was made up of myself and Lawrence from Maker, Wojciech from ADT & Jack from Interior design.

Our ideas developed from discussing the various associations we had from each word, starting with global. We started with words rather than images to get us started – something we could do together rather than silently scrolling through images individually.

The words we came up with were things like:

Global: Worldwide, business, corporate, open, expansive, tribal, space, agoraphobia, light, optimistic, huge, massive, vast, travel, flags, countries, cities, landmarks, continents, oceans, artefacts, Pitt Rivers Museum, encompassing etc…

From here we started to look at the slides we were provided with and started to think about how we could interpret these words into images. For example, we thought about the light and decided this should be bright and natural, initially thinking the building should be made of windows, then realising we didn’t actually have to create walls – it didn’t have to be a room, so we scrapped that idea. To represent the Corporate aspect, we decided to have a central character looking optimistically out & up in a business suit, looking out over the ocean towards the world with a path leading across the ocean representing the journey. We looked at the meaning of colours – the colours for optimism are yellow and orange, so we selected a horizon showing the sun rising in yellow and orange hues. Wojciech created the final Global image with our supervision & using images that we had all sourced:

global

 

For Parochial, I was the only one who had heard of the word, and then only as an insult – as in ‘you’re soooo parochial!’, so after a little group dictionary diving and discussion, we came up with the following word list:

Parochial: Local, small, traditional, relating to the church, narrow, claustrophobic, cosy, inward, insular, intolerant, restricted, conventional, petty, crafts, sentimental, closed, community, focused, pessimistic.

Initially we threw ourselves into this image without giving it much thought and looked for a typical Welsh home interior incorporating lots of traditional Welsh crafts such as blankets and lovespoons and daffodils, but we struggled to make a cohesive image.

After a frustrating day, we got chatting in our WhatsApp group that evening and decided we needed to take a step back and think about the presentation – the final 2 images needed to work together – reflecting but opposing each other. We still needed the central character, but this time rather than a business suit he needed to be in manual labour apparel. Rather than bright, natural light we needed gloomy artificial light and rather than having this feeling of space it needed to be enclosed. Thinking in this way made it clear that we needed to find an image in a mine – very Welsh, very dark and dreary and very claustrophobic!

From a maker point of view, our main contribution was the corporate versus local handicraft/small business aspect.  I know as a maker this includes Photoshop skills, however I would have been much happier getting my hands dirty and making a maquette rather than a photoshop collage. I watched the photoshop tutorials and contributed to the image manipulation on the Parochial image though, finding the main image of the miner in the mine, adding the dying daffodils & editing the Welsh flag photo to look grubby and ragged to fit in with the lighting and mine theme. It was agreed, however, with limited time remaining that Wojciech was much better & quicker at it, so he took it from there, improving the daffodils, love spoon and adding his nod to the religious origins of the word with the bobblehead Jesus.

Parochial

I think we worked well together as a team – we communicated well, made equal contributions and I think we came up with successful final images. I wasn’t comfortable with collaborating – I have learned through my working life that I am not naturally a team player – I am much happier working on my own. Even as a manager I found it hard to delegate, preferring to do the work myself than entrust it to others. Luckily there were 4 of us – if only 2 or 3, I am likely to take over, 6 or more and I will slink into the background. This is something I am very aware of, so I haven’t necessarily learned anything about how I work with others, but I am 42 when the majority are 19 – I can see it’s a worthwhile aspect of the exercise for them.

I had no idea so much was taken into consideration when creating an interior – you are creating a feeling, experience or state of mind by using the features such as light, space, colour, texture, shape and decorative items as tools. Very interesting.

Cyanotype workshop

Best resource for additional information/tutorials/advanced techniques:

http://www.alternativephotography.com/cyanotype-classic-process/

First you need to mix 25g Ferric Ammonium Citrate with 100ml distilled water, separately mix 10g Potassium Ferricyanide with 100ml distilled water, then mix the 2 solutions together 50:50. This can be kept in a dark brown bottle and kept in the dark but it will not last long, so needs to be used quickly. A bottle of ready-mixed CYAN is always on hand in the print room.

You can print on any organic material – paper, natural fabrics, wood, bone…

You can either print using physical objects such as leaves or scissors or anything, or you can print from a digital image turned into a negative. To do this, open your digital image in photoshop, make it black and white, invert the colours and print on acetate (you have to print on paper, then take to the copy shop at Uni as the general use printers don’t take acetate.)

In a dark room, paint the chemical solution onto your paper/fabric/wood and leave to dry in the dark – do not expose to UV light. To paint it evenly on paper, stretch it with gum strip like watercolour paper first. You can get all sorts of interesting results by using different brushes, brushstrokes and other application methods, but aim for a thin even single coat – don’t allow it to pool or it will go a funny green colour.

Once dry, place the negative on the glass of the exposure box in reverse (i.e writing will need to read backwards when you look at it in order for it to be correct on the finished print).

Place the dried painted paper over the top, face down, then put the lid down and clamp it closed. You can have the ‘tubes’ on briefly while you arrange this, but it will affect the exposure & quality of the print, so be quick if you have to!

The exposure timer should be set to 7.30mins, then turn the cycle button to on

 

Once the exposure cycle has finished, take your print to the wet room and rinse the paper using the hose. It will have gone a green colour where light or white will appear in the final print. Again, do this as quickly as possible as the exposure to light will affect the print if you take too long about it. Make sure you rinse all of the chemicals off – no green remaining, otherwise it will all go blue (rinse especially well on fabric as the fibres hold the solution, so really rinse well!)

Once thoroughly rinsed, dry in the blotting paper in the corner

Artist Inspiration – Miss Fire metal artist

This isn’t really relevant to anything I am doing right now, but I just love her work!  I follow Miss Fire metal artist (Clare McHugh) on facebook and instagram and she has just shared this image of her current work and I had to write a blog post about her:

No photo description available.

This piece is a collaboration with a woodworker Peter Walwin – the frog is a carved wooden sculpture and the rest (copper & steel) is her metalwork. It’s not finished – she will spray the bullrushes, lily and lily pads and water ripples, but to be honest I like it as it is – I like that you can see the materials and you know what colour they should be…let your imagination do the work.

She inspires me for many reasons, not least of which is that she is a woman doing what would be perceived as mans work – hot forges, hard work requiring physical strength, I admire that. She’s also a relatively local artist from Drybrook in Gloucestershire – I like to follow local artists as well as international and well known ones.

I would love to create garden sculptures as my other passion is gardening. I first saw her work at Showborough House Affordable Garden Art Exhibition back in May:

Image may contain: plant, grass, outdoor and nature

This piece was called Ballerina. I like the scale of her work – it fits into a garden landscape perfectly without getting either lost in the foliage or unduly detracting attention from the plants. Here’s her website for more information:

Miss Fire

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