Evaluation and Future

I am pleased with what I have achieved so far, but I still have a long way to go. Several things still feel unresolved.

I have decided I wish to further my research into pattern aesthetics, the maths of pattern and how stitching affects us psychologically. As such I am hoping to get a place on the MA Contemporary Crafts at Hereford College of Art.

Whilst I am happy with my yarn dyeing, I believe with time I will develop my own personal scheme of colours/styles/techniques that will define my brand. At the moment I am still finding my style. All of my yarns are repeatable – I have the recipes, so I can keep the ones I like and discard the ones I don’t wish to repeat, eventually distilling down to a core range. Only experience will tell if my research into colour trends, theory and therapy was relevant.

I am planning to attend my first yarn festival as an exhibitor in November and will continue to apply to others as applications open throughout the year. Applications for Unravel at Farnham Maltings closes on 1st June – I will be getting my application in once my website is fully up to date.

There are many directions my business could take in the future – I could start running workshops, I could open a shop, but to be honest I think I will get bored with yarn dyeing within the next 3 – 5 years. I will concentrate on the pattern designing which has been a constant throughout my life. That is what fulfils my personal creative needs.

I also suspect that as my mental wellbeing and my physical health improves (I am being put on a new form of medication which I am assured will bring my weight down and give me a new lease of life!) my confidence will return and who knows where that will take me? Maybe in 5 years I will be brave, learned and talented enough to be the next Stephen West!

EDGE

How do I evidence working ethically?

Sustainability has been at the fore of my research and development, not just assuming the obvious but researching and evaluating sources of information and finding my own answers which weren’t necessarily expected.

I am learning a lot regarding issues relating to equality and diversity through online knitting and crocheting communities. An example that comes to mind is the following:

https://thecritic.co.uk/knit-picking/

Online knitting communities blew up over this controversy. I read with empathy on both sides and learned from what was being written.

How do I evidence my digital competency?

I am on several social media platforms which I review carefully and hope I keep a positive, professional presence online. I keep a separate Facebook and Instagram for my business.

I am proud of how far I have come with using image and video editing software!

How do I evidence my ability to think globally?

I keep up to date with global issues and how they affect the knitting community by having a diverse range of people that I follow on Instagram – not speaking the same language is no longer a barrier as there is a translate button!

How do I evidence my entrepreneurial ability?

I have faced many challenges and set backs but always find an alternative solution.

Whilst I do find it inspiring working with others, I am very much self motivated and prefer to work alone.

Designing Process

The main things I want to concentrate on when designing my patterns is how the process of knitting the pattern will make the knitter feel. The unique selling point I am basing my designs on is the emphasis on how really complex patterns can help with depression and negative thinking, while simpler patterns can just help relax you and all stages in betwen. Taking into consideration the length of time I had for the module and how long it takes me to knit something of a reasonable size that would be suitable for the exhibition, I decided to make 2 items – one at either end of the scale. One super-complicated and one super simple.

I decided to start with a really complex pattern and was inspired by my tree peony. The colours I had been dyeing reminded me of it and I realised it would be a great basis for a design including some lovely unusual and complex textural stitches.

As I have written in the pattern introduction: The Peony Mandala Cushion pattern has been intentionally designed to be very complicated, meaning that total concentration is demanded and the mind is kept fully occupied, easing depression by blocking negative or over thinking. Stitch counting is necessary, unusual and unfamiliar stitches are included (requiring tutorials which I have provided in both written and video form – see YouTube video here) and frequent changes in stitch happen from bobbles to loops to welts to leaf lace – no getting comfortable with this pattern!

The Mandala is a circular figure representing the universe in Hindu and Buddhist symbolism.

In Jungian psychology a mandala as a symbol in a dream, representing the dreamer’s search for completeness and self-unity.

The finished cushion has a 26″ diameter – perfect for a summer garden floor cushion or a big squishy statement bed/sofa throw cushion.

From my decades of knitting experience I already had a few ideas of the stitches I wanted to use. For the cntre of the flower I wanted to use bobbles which are quite common but fiddly and loops which are quite unusual. The crochet chain loops incorporate a simple crochet chain, which some knitters will be unfamiliar with, and the thumb loops I remember from cardigans my mum knitted me as child in the 1970’s but you just don’t see these days. I found a vintage copyright free pattern for this stitch. I also knew I wanted to use welts to represent the un-furled dark centre petal and leaf lace for the outside, but the petals were a conundrum and took some experimenting and took a while to figure out.

The stitches are all existing stitches, going back hundreds of years in stitch libraries. It is incredibly difficult to come up with a brand new stitch that has never been done before – hand knitting has been around for so long and has historically been a much more commonly practiced craft that there is little left to discover.

It is, however, possible to come up with new combinations of stitches, making new patterns and new shapes. The maths is complicated – to make a flat circle you need to increase by 32 stitches every 4th row (starting with 8 and 16 increases on the 1st 2 x 4th rows!). You need to ensure any pattern repeats fit into the number of stitches you have per round and take into account these increases. Moving from one section to another section with different numbers of stitches in the respective repeats requires adjustments of the number of stitches evenly around with either increases or decreases. Pattern designing is not easy and I spent many an hour puzzling over graph paper and calculator!

As you can see, the finished pattern is 12 pages long and has a Youtube video tutorial to accompany it, showing all the stitches required in order to complete the pattern. Even for experienced knitters, sometimes it is very helpful to see the stitches being worked before attempting them yourself.

There was some concern over my recording the video in my garden looking unprofessional, but I wanted the daylight and the relaxing sounds of the birds in the background. I also wanted to be able to achieve consistancy, and whilst I could have used the recording equipment from university for this particular project, I would not have access to it going forward and so wanted to work something out that I could repeat for future videos after university. I do find the wind annoying though, so will look to invest in a fluffy microphone windscreen for future videos!

Overall I think it’s in-keeping with my theme of mental wellbeing, being out in the fresh air. It’s totally out of my comfort zone but I think with time I will become more comfortable with it and become less awkward!

The second pattern was designed to be the opposite – asimple, pattern that you don’t have to think about too much. The repetitive process of stitching creating a feeling of calm and peacefulness – perfect for daydreaming, meditation or allowing mental space to reflect on and resolve issues or make considered decisions. Or just keep your hands busy whilst watching TV!

My inspiration was a book I had been reading on repeat patterns:

I had wanted to design a tesselated triangle pattern based on the triangles on the cover of this book, but decided the only way to knit them would either be with short rows or intarsia, both of which are quite advanced stitches and so wouldn’t meet the brief.

I was stuck on the idea of triangles – I love knitting triangle shawls – they are my favourite thing to knit and they are so versatile to wear, but at a certain point when the rows get too long I get bored and put it down, moving on to something else. I wanted to design a pattern made up of mini shawls, keeping rows to around 150 stitches. I wanted to make the pattern versatile – not everyone loves triangle shawls as much as me! That’s why I decided to make it a pattern for the component tessellations – you can make as many as you need to and they could be stitched together in different ways to make a cushion, a bag, a long scarf, all sorts of things…use your imagination and make it your own. It allows for creativity as well as pattern following. I was also aware that my previous pattern used solid colour yarns except for the back and wanted to design something that would allow variegated yarns to shine.

I decided to keep to basic stitches, knit, purl, yarn overs and knit 2 togethers. A pattern beginners could follow and didn’t require a video tutorial. The eyelets formed by the yarn over, knit 2 together gives interest to the plain colour yarn, whilst the variegated yarn is stitched in plain stocking stitch – fancy stitches in variegated yarns get completely lost.

So these are the 2 extremes as I see them. Going forward I would like to have a rating system showing how complicated a pattern is and what feeling the pattern is intended to instigate. The problem is it’s not that simple – it depends on the knitters skill level too. The simplest of patterns to a beginner can require total concentration and the most complicated pattern in the world can be fairly simple to an expert (although the counting in lace patterns would still fully occupy the mind, so maybe it would still do the intended job!)

Another problem is that I find if I am angry, sometimes knitting makes me a hundred times worse! If I am knitting something simple then my mind fixates on what is angering me until I erupt and fling my knitting across the floor in a rage!

I would like to continue my research into pattern and how it affects our mental health – I think I may have only just scratched the surface and would liek to take these studies further.

Project &Self Management

Part of the brief was to create a detailed timetable and cost analysis. I struggled with the timetable initially as I was still suffering with a lot of anxiety and depression. I knew that having a detailed timetable would cause me additional stress and pressure and would not be a good idea considering my state of mind. Had I missed a single deadline I had given myself, I would have given up in despair.

Instead I made a list of things I needed to do with no timescale – just things I knew I had to get on with and could tick off as and when I did them. This strategy might not have met the brief, but it was exactly what I needed. I was able to amend the list as things changed and was still able to prioritise what needed doing and focus on meeting deadlines that were not of my own making. I am also not good with multitasking – I prefer to work on one thing at a time from start to finish and then start something else. Ticking things off a list works for me. I was able to reassess my list on a regular basis and make sure everything was done on time.

Costing

I have provided a list of the cost/pricing of my yarn in my professional practice presentation, however there were many more expenses incurred:

Yarn: £431.60

Dye: £30.95

Card for skein bands: £21.93

Phone holder for videos: £11.99

Grid racking: £169.92

This wasn’t necessary for the exhibition, however it is necessary for attending future yarn festivals. As such I had to buy it sometime, might as well be now.

Vinyl Banners: £30

As above!

It sounds like a lot of expense, but if I sell the yarn then I will make a considerable profit – around £10 per skein x 90 skeins = £900 profit. If I don’t then I can knit my stock and will have saved myself £900 over 2 years as I buy approximately 45 skeins of yarn per year at retail prices!

I have taken the following tables from my business plan, so far they have been accurate:

Marketing Strategies & cost:

 What are you going to do?
Why have you chosen this marketing method?
  How much will it cost?
Use social media to increase my potential customer base: Knit all the most popular patterns on Ravelry in my own yarns, hashtagging them on social media Share videos and tutorials to engage and to show professionalism/expertise  To increase relevant social media following in order to secure a spot at the major Yarn Festivals. I appreciate that there is no point in having 5000 followers if they are not interested in yarn crafts and aren’t going to buy my products, so it is important to keep the social media marketing largely specific and relevant, although also aspirational and personable.1 – 4 skeins of yarn (£5 – £20 cost price, £17 – £80 retail price)    
Have a stand at a major yarn festivalSo customers can see and feel my yarns in person and then have confidence in buying my yarns onlineTotal: £691 initially,  £452 thereafter   Breakdown: £130 for the stand, plus stand furniture and styling (one-off £200), business cards (£15 per 275), signage (free – husband can provide professional quality prints),  public liability insurance (cheapest quote £127 per annum), travel and accommodation expenses (dependent on location but average £60 fuel & £60 per night. Sum Up air contactless credit card reader £39 (one off) plus 1.69% transaction fee
Share a free pattern that is simple and has wide appeal for a limited timePeople like free patterns and will share images of their finished work, therefore promoting my designs on social mediaNothing except the loss of potential revenue the pattern could have earned
TOTAL COST £711 and a lot of time

Yarn cost pricing

 Product/service name     Yarn
ANumber of units in calculation     1
BProduct/service components !00g skein of yarn Dye Energy (gas hob) Selling fee (2%) My time     Components cost £4.50 £0.20 £0.50 £0.34 £10      
CTotal product/service cost£15.54
DCost per unit£15.54  
EPrice per unit£17.00
FProfit margin (£)£1.46
GProfit margin (%)11.64%
HMark up (%)8.59%

Limitations and Innovative Solutions

There are some obvious limitations to my plans.

Planning on selling only at yarn festivals or online. There is a vast number of knitters who don’t go to yarn festivals or buy yarn online – yarn festivals charge entrance fees to customers which can seem crazy – why would what is essentially a giant shop charge visitors to come in and buy? And vice versa – why would you pay a £12 entrance fee to go spend a fortune on expensive yarn? A lot of people do, but it does put a lot of people off too. Many people also won’t buy yarn online as you can’s see the true colour or feel the texture, so you don’t really know what you’re getting.

A solution would be to offer wholesale – ask shops such as The Woolcroft in Abrgavenny to sell my yarn. The problem is that the level of commission they would require per skein of yarn would mean it’s not worth my while.

Another solution would be to open my own shop, but there is already a destination wool shop in Abergavenny and I couldn’t compete. The cost of a shop in local towns without wool shops such as Crickhowell, Monmouth and Brecon would be far too expensive.

I am considering a stall at the monthly craft market in Abergavenny Market Hall which would be much cheaper than a shop and my yarns are different enough from what is sold in The Wool Croft to make it a viable option.

I had also considered a mobile yarn van, kind of like an ice cream truck, but looking into it further found that you need to have a licence from local councils to park up and sell from a van in a specific location, you can’t just drive around like an ice cream van, so that was put on the backburner!

My personality is another limitation – I am not comfortable being the centre of attention, yet I crave knitting superstardom! I don’t really have a solution to this one yet, but I hope that I will become more outgoing and confident as I go.

Art, Craft, Design and where my practice sits

Here are the main Oxford English Dictionary definitions of these words today:

Art: Skill; its display, application, or expression.

Craft: To make or construct skilfully.

Design: A plan conceived in the mind, and related senses.

There are similarities and differences between the disciplines of Art, Craft and Design and throughout history people have attributed them with different values. These values have swapped and changed position in the hierarchy with each being seen as the least or most prestigious at any one time since Ancient Greece.

In his notable work ‘Republic’, in conversation with Glaucon, Plato said the following:

‘Well, we’ve got these three beds. First, there’s the real one, and we’d say, I imagine,

that it is the product of divine craftsmanship. I mean, who else could have made it?’

‘No-one, surely.’

‘Then there’s the one the joiner makes’

‘Yes,’ he said

‘And then there’s the one the painter makes. Yes?’

‘Yes, agreed.’

‘These three then, painter, joiner, God – are responsible for three different kinds of

bed.’

‘Yes, that’s right.’

(Waterfield 1993;347)

My understanding of this writing is that he is drawing distinction between design, craft and art, ascribing levels of importance to each of these and giving the greatest stature to design (the design of God). He calls God the progenitor and maker of the single real bed. He then labels the joiner the maker or manufacturer of types of bed, then the artist as a representor of the others’ creations.

Glenn Adamson, a contemporary writer argues that craft is perceived to be ‘inferior’ to art. In his book Thinking Through Craft (2007), He discusses the various aspects of this second-class identity – supplementarity, sensuality, skill, the pastoral, and the amateur.

In chapter 1 of Craft & the Creative Economy, S Luckman provides a multitude of factors that may have induced the rise in popularity of knitting in the “noughties”, from supermodels knitting whilst waiting to strut the catwalk (and more recently Tom Daley the Olympic diver knitting poolside whilst waiting), celebrities like Kirstie Allsopp & the popularity of programs like The Great British Sewing Bee, Monty Dons Real Craft and The Victorian House of Arts and Crafts (and more recently Netflix series such as Blown Away [glass blowing] and Metal Shop Masters).

She also acknowledges the importance of online selling platforms such as Etsy, the opportunities this provides to earn an income from home based enterprise and also the opportunity to purchase unique handcrafted items by browsing online rather than having to travel to craft markets.  Jakob further writes in ‘Crafting your Way out of the Recession? New Craft Entrepreneurs and the Global Economic Downturn’: “Crafts are currently being rediscovered not only as a hobby but also as a desirable enterprise” (Jakob 2013 p127). Although these were written in 2015 and 2013 respectively, in 2022 we are seeing a continuation and expansion of these trends – more celebrities knitting in public, more craft based TV shows and with Pandemic lockdowns a massive increase in online shopping, time to dedicate to crafting and seeing craft based enterprises as an opportunity to work from home.

My research has led me to believe that perceptions are changing once again and that Craft is currently rising in the ranks against Design and Art due to a recent and fairly abrupt change in societal values: 1) the current mental health crisis caused in part by the Covid Pandemic and an increasing understanding of the relationship between craft and mental wellbeing and 2) the climate crisis and an increasing awareness of environmental issues, sustainability and carbon footprints.

Sustainability in Dyeing – Natural or Acid Dyes?

Environmental issues, sustainability and ecology are no longer minority considerations but mainstream – gone are the days of people making fun of eco-warriors, today most people acknowledge that a climate crisis is looming, are taking an interest in the scientific data and endeavouring to take steps to do their bit to help reduce their carbon footprint. Sustainability is fundamentally about protecting the longevity of the planet and its natural resources.

How will this affect my proposed business?

Materials are fundamentally important to me as a Maker – they are crucial to the enjoyment of the process and the quality of the finished article. If we put aside the sustainability element for a moment, the better quality the yarn, the better finish the final object will have. There are different grades of wool – a lot of sheep wool can be very scratchy and suitable only for insulation or mattress filling. The more luxurious and soft fibres that are required to make yarn suitable for handknitting and wearable items can include Cashmere, Silk, Angora, Alpaca, Blue Faced Leicester, Merino, Bamboo…all natural fibres. The finer the fibre, the more elegantly the work will drape, the softer it will feel against your skin and the more expensive it is likely to be. Yarns made from synthetic fibres such as nylon, acrylic etc… still have their place as they are durable, can be thrown in the washing machine without shrinking and are cheap to mass produce. This means they are also cheap to buy, but they rarely produce the quality finish of natural fibres.

Back to sustainability within the yarn and dyeing industry, when writing my dissertation proposal I had assumed that natural dyeing would be the most sustainable method of imparting yarn with colour. My research has led me to question this assumption. Is using natural plant dyes any less harmful to the environment than using acid dyes within such a small scale business as I am proposing?

The main sustainability considerations  for my business would be:

  • How much energy am I using in the dye process?
  • Am I causing any pollution through my dye process?
  • How far away am I having to source raw materials – how is transportation affecting the carbon footprint of my business?
  • How important is the sustainability of my business to my customers?

Making Natural Dyes requires a lot of boiling and simmering of dye stuffs in order to extract the dye, using a lot of energy. In Botanical Colour at your Fingertips, Rebecca Desnos gives recipes for making dye baths. For example, making an avocado skin and stone dye bath requires 2 and a half hours of simmering on a stove. A further hour of simmering is then required during the process of dyeing the fibres in the dye bath. Using acid dyes on the other hand requires only 20 minutes of simmering in total.

In her book Wild Colour, Jenny Dean discusses the history of Natural Dyes. In it she explains how textiles have been coloured using natural dyes since time immemorial and that it is only around the time of the industrial revolution that the newly revolutionised textile industry necessitated the development of synthetic dyes to cope with the demand.

As we saw from Rebecca Desnos, distilling natural dyes from plants takes a lot of time, energy and resources. Usually, in order to create a good depth of colour, the same weight in plant material is required as the weight of fabric that is to be dyed is needed.  In Sustainable Fashion: Past, Present and Future, Colleen Hill and Jennifer Farley Gordon continue to explain that at the height of the industrial revolution, the textile industry expanded so much that the existing traditional natural dye processes became unfeasible. Synthetic dyes were developed by chemists, often from chemical reactions with coal tar resulting in toxic and polluting consequences not only for the workers in the industry, but also wearers of the textiles and the environment from the waste from the dye process. Synthetic dyes are now made differently without causing these effects.

The environmental impact that is now a cause for concern with the use of synthetic dyes is the runoff of waste dyes from large scale manufacturing companies in India, polluting rivers. This is explained in The Guardian article “Natural dyes v synthetic: which is more sustainable?” by Esha Chhabra in March 2015. This will not be an issue with my small business as I will only be using sufficient dye to colour my yarn – my dye baths will be exhausted with very low levels of chemicals being discarded.

This article also argues that Natural dyes are not necessarily better for the environment:

“ Natural dyes, which come mostly from plants these days, are expensive, require larger quantities to create the same depth in colour, and need mordants (which include heavy metal salts) to stick to the fabric. The colour also washes off over time, raising questions over the fabric’s sustainability. Most of all, natural dyes require land to grow them, with indigo, turmeric, and onion shells popular options.”

(Chhabra 2015)

The carbon footprint of many dyestuffs is also of concern. There are some that I can pick from my garden with a carbon footprint, but to achieve some colours the plants required simply don’t grow in this country. Avocado’s, Logwood, Cochineal (controversial from a cruelty perspective too as it is derived from crushing beetles), indigo all create colours that cannot be achieved with anything native to the UK and have to be transported in from other countries.

As to how important sustainability is to my prospective customers, in Sustainable Luxury: a Special Theme Issue of the Journal of Corporate Citizenship (Issue 52), Miguel Angel Gardettii and Ana Laura Torres discuss how wealthy buyers have traditionally purchased luxury items with the intention of impressing others, however there has been a “ shift from ‘conspicuous consumption’ to ‘conscientious consumption’” (Cvijanovich 2011). In their Journal they are referring to luxury buyers as in wealthy people buying Porsches and designer clothes, however the same principle can be applied in the case of yarn and rare breed sheep wool.

During my career in financial services there was a noticeable rise in the preference for ethical and socially responsible investment. In the 2000’s, when I started working in the industry, people placing their money in ‘ethical’ investment funds, i.e. excluding investment in tobacco, alcohol, weapons etc…and investing only in companies considered to be prioritising ethical principles – treating staff fairly, minimising their environmental impact, offsetting their carbon footprint etc…were thought to be exchanging profit for their principles. The commonly held view was that ethical companies simply wouldn’t make as much profit as others. Over the last decade this view has changed as the perceived loss of profit never materialised. In fact ethical funds over time have often out performed those without ethical credentials.

These are the findings from my research, and as a regular attendee at yarn festivals I have certainly noticed an increase in the number of stands selling naturally dyed yarns and increased interest in their wares, However I am not sure I believe that naturally dyed yarns are actually any better for the environment

Dyeing Process

The first step in the dyeing process is selecting my yarn bases. I decided to source my undyed yarn from Yarn Undyed over other suppliers because:

They have the best range, quality and prices (especially with the discounts given to business accounts).

They only stock wool from reputable, ethical farms with high standards of animal welfare, ensuring the sheep have not been mulesed

Previous experience has been very positive – they send free samples of yarns upon request before buying full skeins. Excellent fast and friendly service.

Once I had ordered my samples I selected my range of bases assessed on price, texture, diversity and personal preference and placed my first order of 75 skeins! (at this point I had forgotten to take into account any disappointing outcomes and the yarn I would need to use in my pattern designs! The fast and friendly service that had swayed me to use Yarn Undyed paid off in the week before deadline!)

Choosing dyes:

There are many producers of acid dyes. I wanted to ensure that sustainability was central to the ethos of the supplier I chose. Whilst Jaquard are probably the best known producers of acid dyes, they are based in California and I wanted to support UK businesses and minimise my carbon footprint and so selected Colourcraft.

About ColourCraft

Established in 1978, we are a UK family run business specialising in the manufacture and distribution of a wide range of high quality, environmentally friendly, non toxic, water based, innovative products. We are market leaders in the supply of art materials and products for textile design including fabric dyes, fabric paints and printing systems.

Each range is carefully monitored from formulation to production by our Technical Director and staff to ensure excellent, professional results. Because we manufacture in house we can ensure that full technical back up is available. We also source products from other leading manufacturers. We will only work with companies who have a reputation for supplying goods of the finest quality. They are selected with great care bearing in mind that an important part of our vision is to maintain a policy of social, economic and environmental responsibility.

The dye process.

Here is my dyeing set up: As I am only a small scale dyer, dyeing to order I can use my kitchen and a few pans and utensils set aside specifically for dyeing (ensuring they are not used for food!)

I made a short video to show my dye process:

https://youtu.be/HERUbgXbpxk

I have set up my YouTube channel and intend to share video tutorials for patterns here. The dye process one is here for assessment purposes as WordPress won’t allow me to sharevideos over 5 minutes unless a pay to upgrade!

The finished yarn:

There are various methods of dyeing yarn: In a large, shallow pan on a stove, in a deep stock pot on a stove, wrapped in cling film in the microwave, specialist dye pots. I am using the first 2 methods as I don’t have a spare microwave, the cling film is an unnecessary use of plastic and I don’t wish to purchase specialist dye pots just yet…maybe in the future if the demand is there.

There are also several techniques:

solid/semi solid – mix the dye in a deep stock pot with enough water for the yarn to move freely, then submerge the yarn in the dye, warm until the dye is mostly absorbed into the yarn and the water is almost boiling and then add the acid (vinegar). For a semi solid colour with dark and light areas, add the acid before the yarn. This will make the colour strike fast in some places, giving variations of darker and lighter areas.

The tomato red colour mid-dye. The dye mix for this colour is a mixture of 1g yellow dye powder and 0.4g magenta. As you can see the yarn pulls in the magenta first and the yellow dye takes longer to attach. Keep heating until all of the yellow is absorbed and the water is clear.

Variegated yarns – see video above. In a large shallow pan, put enough water to cover the bottom of the pan so the yarn won’t burn, but it doesn’t completely cover the yarn – it’s only partially submerged. Maybe half a centimeter. soak the yarn in an acid/water solution for 20 mins and spread out in the pan. Dot pre-mixed dyes around the yarn (I use a meat syringe, but you can use squeezy bottles or just dollop teaspoons of the dye, but this may not saturate the yarn all the way through and you night need to flip it over and dye the other side! Heat until water is simmering and runs clear. For a more sublte variegated yarn you can do this in a stock pot with water just covering the yarn. The dye will disperse in the water and will blend more, so this should only be done with colours that blend well – blue and orange for example will create a horrible brown in places.

Variegated using shallow pan method
Variegated using stock pot method.

Speckles – prepare yarn as above, pre-soaked in the dilute acid in a shallow pan with just enough water to cover the bottom of the pan. Turn the heat on and sprinkle the dried dye powder onto your yarn, either pinching whilst wearing rubber gloves or sprinkling through a tea strainer. This works better on some yarns than others – on some the speckles will strike immediately giving hard dots, on others the dots spread and give a more subtle effect.

This yarn was dyed a yellow-orange initially using the solid dye technique, then re-dyed with scarlett powder speckles using the speckling technique. The 75% merino 25% nylon yarn gives strong speckles.

Dip-Dyeing – this is more effective with natural dyes as the yarn takes on the dye more slowly, but if you’re quick you can do it with the acid dyes too. Quickly dip the yarn to give a light shade, then dip maybe 3/4 of the yarn again for a few seconds or until you can see a darker shade forming. Then dip only half for the same amount of time so it gets even darker and finally the last 1/4, giving an ombre effect.

This yarn was speckled at one point, then holing that pont so that it wasn’t over-dyed, dipped into a dye bath of yellow and magenta mixed together. the intial dips only took the yellow, the next a deeper orange and the longer submersions took on the deep orange-pink.

Overdyeing – this was an experiment/happy accident! I dyed a skein using the orange, light orchid, periwinkle and mint green and it looked horrible – I forgot to adjust the dye recipes and the colours came out far too strong and just didn’t go well. Part of me knows that someone somewhere would have loved it, but I wondered what would happen if I overdyed it with black – would it completely cover these already rich, saturated colours and obliterate them, or not? I mixed a 1g black solution and re-dyed using the solid colour method & got this gorgeous oilslick effect! I have tried a few times now and this is totally repeatable and my favourite colourway by far.

Circumstances and consequences

Circumstances have affected my University journey. I arrived in 2018 very excited to learn new craft skills with the intention of either making garden sculpture or creating work for selling and exhibiting in galleries. Knitting was the furthest thing from my mind – still relegated to hobby status.

The Covid 19 Pandemic and my Dad’s terminal cancer diagnosis threw my plans off track. Being an only child and my parents having moved to Wales fairly recently, leaving family and friends a couple of hours drive away, I was all they had in the way of support and so my time was very limited. From his diagnosis in October 2019, my making had to be something I could do at home and whenever I had a spare hour. Working on campus became logistically difficult.

I also had a bit of a breakdown. Dad did not take his diagnosis well, and due to the Covid Pandemic and lockdowns starting in March 2020, neither of my parents had the professional emotional support they needed. Trying to care for them both through this, physically and mentally took its toll on my own wellbeing and I suffered with my mental health, anxiety and depression for most of 2020 and 2021.

Whilst I suspended studies in January 2021, returning in January 2022 I had already submitted my proposal for my CERP as a consequence of my previous circumstances – the business plan for a yarn dyeing and knitting pattern design. I had also completed “The pitch, the plan and the goods” – the preparation module for “Exposure” prior to suspending, so I felt I had no option but to continue on this path. Not that I didn’t want to, but now I am feeling back to my normal self and my mental health issues have subsided, I do find myself wondering whether I may have chosen a different path if circumstances had been different.

The pitch, the plan and the goods
Bowl project

As I feel better, the more I wonder whether the path I have chosen will ultimately be fulfilling creatively, but then I think I can always incorporate ceramics or enamelling in my business plan by making yarn bowls, stitch markers, buttons and other notions to enhace my yarns. Or maybe they will take knittings place as a hobby once knitting becomes my profession. I am very grateful for the opportunity to learn new skills and feel a little sad that circumstances prevented me taking them further than I did.

Another way the Covid pandemic has affected my journey is that we saw a huge surge in participation in hobbies, as is evidenced from the February 2021 Mintel Hobbies and Interests Report:

“Some 71% of adults report an increase in hobby activity since the start of the COVID-19 pandemic: 42% have spent more time on an existing hobby/interest, 27% have rediscovered a passion from the past, and 20% have started a new hobby/interest.

The January 2021 lockdown has led to another surge in online hobby-related searches which points to a further wave of activity and sales.

Once the health threat begins to diminish and the vaccine rollout is well underway, hobbies and interests will face the return of competition from out-of-home leisure alternatives. Some activities may see a decline, although the majority of consumers currently intend to devote more time to their hobby.

In the longer term, the trend towards flexible working accelerated by the pandemic, and the growing recognition that hobbies and interests have a positive impact on mental health and wellbeing, will create growing opportunities for brands.” (Mintel Hobbies and Interests Report February 2021)

This all sounds very positive, but I feel I missed the boat. Had I been mentally fit to, I could have taken advantage of this opportunity when it arose, as many people did. I watched with dismay as others started writing about things I had been researching prior to suspending studies on social media. Upon my return to uni it was a shock to see so many students knitting and crocheting, spinning and felting. I feel like I have lost my innovative slant and now it looks like I am jumping on the bandwagon 2 years too late.

I also have concerns that as lockdowns are relegated to a strange period in our past history and we “learn to live with” Covid; will the interest in yarn crafts, hobbies, taking time out and self care also fade? Will home working really become more common or will that disappear too?

Me

Where do I fit in? I am aware from feedback on my CERP that my lecturers were under the impression that I am unclear of my goals and vision for my future. I am not interested in the financial gains from selling patterns and yarns, but I would like to at least break even and am aware that in order to get noticed, get my name known, I need to start somewhere. By selling yarns at the festivals, people will get used to seeing my name. They will chat to me and take business cards, check my website, add me as a friend on Ravelry follow me on social media. Having said I am not interested in financial gains, people don’t take you seriously if you give away your patterns for free or underprice your wares so I will charge the going rate for yarns, patterns and whatever else I do. By underpricing you also make it difficult for others who do require the income from it.

Currently I am mainly a follower. I join in with KAL’s, buy the patterns, read the blogs, follow the social media. But I want to be someone that gets followed. Around 2016 I designed maybe 20 patterns and made them available on Ravelry, some for free, some for sale. A few have been popular. I had a blog which attracted a following and I had a small following of a hundred or so genuinely interested in what I had to say and what I was designing (not the tidal wave of fake followers trying to get their own followers up by asking you to follow them back or get you to pay them to advertise your wares through their page!) At the time this was a hobby and I let it slip as I was still employed and didn’t have the time. I hadn’t anticipated the longevity of my designs – still selling a few patterns every month 6 years later and am now wanting to pick up where I left off, designing more refined patterns, raising my profile, engaging with more people as an expert/leader rather than a follower. I want the prestige that comes with being one of the superstars of the yarniverse!

I am not your average 20ish year old student, looking to start a creative career. At the age of 46 I have had a long career in financial services and have had some bad experiences, leading me to a point where I feel like I can no longer cope with the pressure of the sector, or even employment. Being employed fives me the feeling that I owe someone my time and effort in exchange for a wage and I constantly feel like I am not giving enough, I think it’s called imposter syndrome? Anyway, I feel I need to turn that around and by starting my own business I can put in the time and effort I am able to, and hope that people will wish to pay me for that time and effort. If they don’t, it’s fine – I am fortunate to be in a financially stable position so as long as it’s mainly time I am spending and not huge amounts of money that isn’t being recouped from sales, that’s ok. I don’t want a bigger house, designer clothes or more expensive holidays – I am happy with my lot.

I am not a confident person by nature, but the more I go to the shows as a seller, the more confident I will become and I will be more willing to teach workshops and masterclasses. Through making video tutorials and the feedback I have had on social media I am starting to realise that people find me approachable and easy to listen and talk to, and I quite enjoy it. The next step is live demonstrations.

I think my reluctance to articulate my ambition comes from a fear of sounding arrogant combined with a superstious fear that it will jinx my prospects of my dream coming true.

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