After chatting to Matt about my plans and discussing what clay would be best, he told me crank clay would be most suitable for making sculptures that are to be outdoors all year round as it is a heavily grogged stoneware (lots of ground up bisque fired particles in it), making it the most hardy, frostproof medium. Unfortunately the clay store was out of crank, so whilst I was waiting for it to be delivered I started practicing with buff stoneware, which should still be fine for outdoor sculpture, just not quite as hardy.
I started by shaping clay around a balloon as Claire Curneen showed us in the ceramics segment of Collaborate by pinching small balls of clay and making flat “oysters” and scalloping them together row by row to form a vessel. I would then be able to smooth the surface with a ceramics tool called a kidney once I had finished making my sphere.
I made a half sphere, but found that gravity fought the oysters after this point, so had to turn the piece upside down to continue working. This wasn’t as easy as I thought, as gravity also made the bowl I had created collapse as soon as I turned it upside down. I had to let it dry to leather hard before I could turn it upside down and continue making. In order to hold it steady, I found a bowl to sit it in.
I also found that even then it was impossible to carry on working up from the “equator” of my sphere – I would have to start from the top, working my way down again row by row, finally joining my two halves with a row in the middle. As the bottom was leather hard and the top wasn’t, I covered it with a plastic bag overnight to even out the moisture.
The next day the moisture had evened out, however I realised that I hadn’t made a level bottom, so luckily it was still soft enough to flatten on the base. I then tried smoothing the surface using a kidney but found it very difficult as it was a little too dry and I was using a smooth kidney – Clare Stephens kindly suggested I tried a kidney with a serrated edge, which made it much easier! I then made the top of the seed head and joined it by the cross hatching and slip method.
Many people had warned me that modelling clay around a balloon was risky as the clay would shrink as it dried and rather than popping the balloon, the clay would crack. I was therefore very conscious that I had to pop the balloon as soon as I thought the clay was hard enough to support itself. Unfortunately I misjudged this the first time and popped the balloon a little early. The sphere started to crack and collapse at a weak point on the base. Luckily I was able to support it sufficiently to stop it collapsing completely and the next morning, once it was dry, Matt showed me how to fix the crack with vinegar and thick clay slip. There was still a concern that the crack would worsen during firing, but again I was very lucky and it survived.

There were several things I was unhappy with on this first trial:
- It was incredibly difficult, time consuming and tedious to make – I did not enjoy the process at all.
- I wasn’t happy with the surface of the sphere – even though I had smoothed it, I could still see the disc shapes.
- Poppy seed heads have vertical ribs which I needed to add.
- I wasn’t happy with the top – it looked too much like a flower. It needed to be smaller, rougher and have more segments.
I decided I needed to make them sturdier and in a completely different way. I thought if I could start by making a cage around the balloon with extruded clay, this would not only give me a sturdier structure but also create the vertical ribs I needed. I also decided to add bases to make them more stable and avoid the cracking issue.
I remembered a beach ball cake I had made for a friend a few years ago and thought I could use the icing technique I had used for that with clay. I could roll sheets of clay and cut out each segment, laying it over the ribs and joining with the cross hatching and slip method. I just had to wait for the crank clay…

The crank clay was much harder to work with than I had anticipated. I knew that it was going to be crumblier because of the grog in it, but I couldn’t even get a 2cm thick band to go half way around the balloon without it tearing. I spoke to John about this as I thought a way around it might be to make it full scale – if I could increase the size, I could increase the thickness of the bands and maybe they wouldn’t tear so easily. He brought in Ingrid to ask her opinion as a ceramicist, who suggested I kept to the 1/4 scale, but used paper clay instead of crank clay as it was never going to be suitable for such an intricate, delicate, “diaphonous” structure.
I got Rosette Gault’s book ‘Paper Clay’ out of the library, had a read and then went to speak to Matt about it. He said I could make paper clay with the crank clay, so the finished sculpture would retain the strength and hardy qualities of the crank clay whilst being much lighter and it would be easier to work with as the cellulose in the paper pulp that would be added would make the clay much more plastic, and I could use it like papier mache – building up layers of slip, joining wet to leather hard or even dry clay without cross hatching. The thing to be wary of with paper clay is that it doesn’t keep – the paper pulp and moisture mean that it goes mouldy after about a week in a plastic bag, and the mould spores can be dangerous if inhaled. The cellulose will also deteriorate and you will lose the plasticity. As such, you have to either use it within a few days or dry it out completely on a plaster bat to re- constitute at a later date by soaking in water.
With Matt’s guidance I made the paper clay and it solved all of my problems – it was a joy to work with and I was able to make them as I had planned.






































































































