The Knitting and Crochet World for outsiders!

I am very aware that few of my lecturers (and therefore those assessing me) are not knitters or crocheters and are not immersed in our yarnie universe, so I thought I would take the opportunity to explain. The yarniverse is very similar to other crafty realms such as ceramics, woodworking, stone carving etc… there are global networks for socialising, knowledge sharing and selling. There are superstars of the knitting and crocheting communities, such as Attic 24 (crochet), Stephen West (knitting), Tin Can Knits, La Bien Aimee, Arne and Carlos, Brooklyn Tweed, Janie Crow…all with hundreds of thousands of followers on social media and whose patterns sell like hot cakes. They are based all over the world and have a global following.

There are yarn festivals in the UK most weekends throughout the year in many small towns with a big one like Wonderwool Wales, Yarndale, Edinburgh Wool Festival, Unravel, Yarningham, The Wool Monty etc… most months. the smaller ones are held in village halls, town markets or other buildings of that sort with maybe 5 – 20 stalls selling hand spun and/or dyed yarns, patterns and notions and the big ones are held in arena’s like the NEC and vast agricultural buildings like Builth Wells Royal Welsh Showground and Skipton Auction Mart. I have concentrated on the UK, but the same is happening all over Europe, America and the world!

Retreats, workshops and courses are incredibly popular with people teaching all aspects from spinning, dyeing, knitting, crochet, designing etc… Arne and Carlos (Norwegian knitting superstars) even run knitting cruises in collaboration with Hurtigruten!

Ravelry is at the core of the knitting, crocheting, weaving, spinning and dyeing community. They probably explain themselves better than I could:

About Ravelry

Ravelry is an inclusive, friendly website for knitters, crocheters, spinners, weavers, and dyers. We are made up of millions of yarn lovers from all over the world. Ravelry provides a personal notebook for fiber artists to keep track of their projects, yarns & fibers, tools, and pattern library, a rich database of patterns and yarns, and a community with thousands of forums and groups to connect with other Ravelers over any interest you could think of.

Everything on Ravelry is user-driven: we all help to make the site useful and fun. We are happy you are here! There are three main areas of Ravelry for you to explore:

They also provide a platform for any user to create a ‘designer’ profile and share their own designs either for free or for sale. They charge 3.5% commission for any sales, but provide incredibly helpful invoicing, data and automatic vat and tax calculations for selling globally so it’s well worth it!

Knit alongs or “KAL’s”, Crochet alongs “CAL’s” are hugely popular on social media. Groups of people decide to make the same pattern at the same time, supporting each other along the way if anyone struggles with any of the instructions and praising each others work along the way. These can be groups of a few friends who know each other in the real world, or for example the Stephen West Shawlography MKAL (Mystery Knit A Long) had over 11,000 joining in across the globe. In order to run an MKAL you need a lot of loyal followers and a clear design style as people are paying for a pattern they have not seen! They are generally released in 4 segments – one a week over 4 weeks so you don’t know what you are knitting until the 4th week. There are chat forums on Ravelry, Instagram and Facebook where the participants can share progress and speculate about what’s coming next – fun!

Knitting is no longer for little old ladies like Miss Marple – knitters are now all ages, genders, ethnicities, religions…yarn is for everyone! The opportunities are vast.

Branding and Website

Whilst I loved the name Edafedd and the link to my Welsh heritage, it has become apparent that I am going to have to change the name as I cannot pronounce it! After saying it out loud in front of a couple of Welsh speakers, who both said “no…it’s Ed-ahhh-veth” and I could not tell the difference between what I said and what they said I decided it was time to change it. Other issues I had perceived were whether anyone else would be able to pronounce it, and if they can’t pronounce it would they remember it? And on the other side of the fence, what if people assumed that I spoke Welsh and were disappointed to discover I only know about 20 words (and probably don’t pronounce any of them correctly!)

After much consideration I came up with Antidote Yarns and Designs. It’s in-keeping with my ethos that knitting is good for mental wellbeing and is the Antidote to the stresses of modern life. It would also come high up in any alphabetical listing!

Whilst looking around Wonderwool Wales I looked at how others ahd branded with their logos and labels etc…

A lot of the logos were quite dull. I guess it means it doesn’t upstage the yarn, but I decided I wanted something bright and bold that stood out from the crowd. A few had luggage labels with stickers on, which I guess is cheaper but it looks it, so I definitely want bands. I also don’t like the stickers. I get that it means you can order bands in bulk and then just put the individual information on the sticker, and it also means you don’t have to glue the bands, but I will be printing my own and think they will look much sleeker fully printed, no sticker. Loved the boxed mini skeins – will look into doing this at a later date & designing a suitable pattern!

I had a look at some logo creation sites and drafted a few possibilities:

I do like them, but I am very conscious that because they are generic, someone, somewhere is likely to have the same thing, or something very similar. I really like the pink and yellow together – always been a favourite colour combination of mine and it’s bold and will stand out!

I decided as my business is all about the hand made I really needed to make my own logo. I had a couple of ideas – continuous line drawing (to represent the yarn) but this has been done a lot, watercolour painting of a skein of yarn but again this has been done a lot and wouldn’t achieve the bold stand-out logo I am looking for. So I decided on a lino print.

From this I was able to digitise the image and change the colours to the pink and yellow I liked, make it circular and add the Company name and slogan.

I made a note of the yellow and pink codes so that I can keep all my social media and branding consistent. I am happy with it – it’s bright, cheerful and draws attention.

Customer Profiling

The Mintel Reports on Hobbies and Interests Report showed that my target audience is most likely to be women over 55, but this is not what I see at Yarn Festivals. I see mostly women between 30 and 50, but all ages, genders and ethnicities are present in large numbers.

My typical customer would be a knitter or crocheter full stop!

Although my research has shown my most likely audience to be women over 55, my yarns and patterns are designed with inclusivity in mind to appeal to all ages, genders, ethnicities and skill levels, however as I will be focusing on luxury yarns, they will be at the higher end of the price range for yarns. The cost of materials and time investment in hand dyeing the yarns will make them uncompetitive with cheaper, big brand yarns, so I will be marketing to wealthier customers with regards to the yarn.  My patterns, however will have no material costs and it will not be necessary to use my yarns to follow them – they will be compatible with cheaper, big brand yarns and so will be more affordable to all.

Wonderwool Visit for Research Purposes & Informal Chats with Dyers & Designers I Know

I have done a lot of academic research, time for some fun research! I have had a couple of informal chats with friends in the industry – mainly with Sarah Laible Hollandsworth as she is based in the US and has retired and therefore wouldn’t see me as competition! She gave me great advice and alleviated some of my concerns! I had been worried whether I only see the front line smiles and cheerfulness of vendors at yarn festivals and maybe behind the scenes it was actually very catty and competitive. She assured me most are friendly, collaborative and helpful. I checked with a couple of Brits I know too and they agreed!

Her advice was as follows:

make sure there is room for people to walk around – if one person is looking at your stall, everyone else will pile in as they want to know what caught the first persons eye & don’t want to miss out!

People don’t look at anything below knee level.

Fingering/4ply/sock weight yarn sells best, followed by dk, then lace, then worsted.

Always wear your yarn, always be working with your yarn, always have samples of your yarn worked up to show the drape, colour pooling and lack of colour pooling.

In the States people are veering away from speckled yarns and semi solid, tonal and solid colours are on trend.

Expect to sell between 60 – 100 skeins on the Saturday & 40 – 70 on the Sunday. Be prepared for shops wanting to stock your yarns and ask you to do workshops.

I then spoke to Michelle of Woolly Wumpkins – a local dyer and designer from Tonypandy. She confirmed something I had suspected – Wonderwool Wales is lovely behind the scenes, whereas Yarndale had a horrible atmosphere. She said she also had one of her worst takings at Yarndale – only £40 for the whole day. Considering the cost of a stand (£180 plus VAT), travelling and accommodation that’s quite a significant loss. She has always made a good profit at Wonderwool though, even though it’s a similar cost. She recommended smaller venues such as West Wales Wool Show as she has found she makes more sales in much smaller venue and you can chat to people more easily. I have therefore decided to apply to exhibit here as my first venture!

I visited Wonderwool Wales this year and chatted to a few vendors I follow on Instagram. I was nervous they would think I was stealing their idea’s or muscling in on their business, but they were actually very encouraging. Sealy Macwheely confirmed that Wonderwool is definitely worth it – she always makes a good profit and confirmed what I thought – most people take cards and buy from the website in the following week, so it’s as much about marketing as sales on the day.

I got lots of ideas of what works and what doesn’t with the stall set ups too. And I noticed that one stall was selling their sock yarn at £10 per skein (usual price £16 – £18) and people were avoiding it like the plague. It had no logo/information bands around it, the yarn was out in the middle of the stand rather than around the edges and it looked unprofessional, even though the yarn was probably just as good as anyone elses.

How did she sneak in?

I also had a chat with a lady on the Weavers, Spinners and Dyers Guild but I’m not sure it’s for me.

Evaluative Statment

I have had a contradictory first term of year 3. On one hand, I have benefitted from working from home – I save 2 hours a day commute, I haven’t really made any connections with other students on the course so I don’t feel I have missed out on much in the way of connecting with my peers. The work I have been focussing on doesn’t require access to workshops – I have far more equipment and materials here than there are there. Ingrid especially has made Teams tutorials and seminars fun and interesting and I don’t feel the teaching from any of the tutors has been negatively impacted by being online. It has been well organised and everyone has been included and participating, I love the ability to raise a virtual hand to ask questions as I often don’t feel comfortable interrupting. I think my motivation is just as high at home as it would have been had this been a ‘normal’ year.

On the other hand, I have missed the creative input of seeing what everyone else is doing – not necessarily just in Maker but across the whole of CSAD. It’s hard to see what the rest of the group are doing via video – much easier when wandering around the studio spaces. I would also probably have made more of an effort to arrange an induction on the knitting machines and spent more time working with clay had I felt comfortable being on campus – I know the safety measures are in place, but with Dad being so vulnerable it was a risk I was not prepared to take. I do intend to persevere with ceramics in my own time after uni – I enjoyed playing with clay far too much to let it go, so the group seminars were a joy and I learned so much that I will take forward.

I feel that there have been a lot of opportunities that I haven’t been able to take full advantage of due to my current situation and time restraints – work, parents, medication issues, which is frustrating. I would have loved to attend more of the online events that we were notified of, but time hasn’t allowed. I do think all the tutors have done a wonderful job of bringing these opportunities to our attention.

Overall I feel confident that I know what I am going to do, how I am going to do it and can’t wait to get stuck in once my dissertation is finished!

Portcullis Cowl/Snood Knitting Pattern and Evaluation

I am really pleased with this pattern – it satisfied everything I wanted it to and was a pleasure to work on. I guess the actual artefact is the pattern rather than the cowl/snood, so it’s quite hard to evaluate as I would need feedback from purchasers as to how simple it is to follow.

I am relatively happy with the photos, however I would ideally have another photo of my husband wearing it out in the Welsh Landscape to highlight the cultural and heritage inspiration. Time and weather did not permit. I believe that the most important thing with photographing work for patterns is to make sure the work is finished properly and looking its best. Blocking (washing and pinning out to dry, making the stitches look perfectly even and defined) is far more important than the model wearing it. I could have asked a slimmer, prettier, younger friend to model, but it would go against my ethics of inclusivity. On that note, I do think I missed a trick by not getting the photo of Peter wearing it – I think the gender neutrality of the pattern is something that should have been focussed on more.

Professional Context

Dee Hardwicke

Dee Hardwicke is a local Monmouthshire artist, illustrator, designer and knitter who designs patterns for Rowan (the most well known high quality yarn producer) as well as running workshops and various other sidelines

https://www.deehardwicke.co.uk/index.html

Stephen West

WKBK3 Cover.jpg

Stephen West is probably the most popular designer around right now – so many of his patterns are in the Ravelry top 20! Westknits designs are gender neutral, often make use of variegated yarns, which are very popular as they come in beautiful colourways – the kind of thing you pick up and ‘have to have’ no matter the cost or the fact you have no idea what you’re going to do with it! And variegated yarns don’t lend themselves to a lot of patterns – they hide lace and cable patterns, it’s hard to match with a solid colour as you need a good contrast against ALL the colours in a yarn to make it stand out…so he’s found a gap in the market there!

https://www.westknits.com/

Kaffe Fassett

About - Kaffe Fassett Studio

Kaffe Fassett is probably one of the best known Knitting pattern designers around, famed for his use of bold colour and geometric patterns (especially in the 1980’s, but is becoming popular again!)

http://www.kaffefassett.com/about/

2nd Artefact, my business plans after Uni & EDGE

The brief for the second artefact is to make an artefact informed by the bowl project but moving into my intended professional practice and indicative of the work I intend for the final show.

Working backwards, after Uni I intend to design knit and crochet patterns which I will sell on Ravelry, a globally accessible online forum specifically for yarn crafts.

Why?

  1. It fulfils my desire to earn a living doing something I love – I get to be creative when designing, get the pleasure of making my prototypes/model pieces and don’t have to suffer the repeated making of the same thing over and over if I chose the path of making and selling finished items.
  2. By selling designs online, there is no outlay other than what I spend on yarn making the prototypes/models, which I would spend anyway as I would be knitting up other peoples designs as a hobby!
  3. It’s an income for life – even after retirement! I made some patterns available for purchase on Ravelry about 6 years ago and the sales have remained pretty consistent – I make £20-£30 per month from designs which I sell for £4 each. Of 21 patterns I sell, maybe 3 or 4 have been relatively popular. Whilst I clearly can’t live on this, the more popular patterns I design and sell, the more income I make. I also worked out that over that period, one of my designs has earned me over £1,000. Considering it took me maybe 2 weeks to design, knit up and create the pattern, when compared with what I could charge for a piece of work in a craft shop that would take me the same amount of time to make, it’s not a bad profit!
  4. It’s relatively ethical and sustainable – as it’s all digital I am not producing anything that can cause harm to the planet…except for the energy consumption of my computer and my customers computer when they download the pattern and a few sheets of paper and some printer ink if they choose to print the pattern, but that is up to them – it isn’t necesary to print them.
  5. It opens the doorway for so many other things – online tutorials, designing for big companies, dyeing my own yarns to go with the patterns and sell at yarn festivals such as Wonderwool Wales, Yarndale, Unravel etc…(also Marketing strategy to get my name and brand out there), incorporating my love of ceramics by making yarn bowls, shawl pins, beads and other knitting accessories.

I think my reasons unintentionally cover EDGE very well!

A little about Ravelry:

Ravelry is an incredibly diverse and inclusive community with millions of users from novice to expert, crafters and designers, big companies and independents, all ages, genders, sexualities, religions, political stances etc… welcome.

My existing designs:

What will make my patterns different from the 1.01 million patterns available on the site is that instead of the finished product I will be focussing on the making – designing based on patterns and colours with mindfulness, grounding and achieving a state of ‘flow’. Obviously the finished product will still need to be desirable – that is what people look for initially, but there are so many patterns out there that look lovely but are hell to make! I want to focus on passing on the joy of making, the finished object being a bonus!

Plans for next year:

There are several factors I believe affect the enjoyment of knitting and crocheting: colour, yarn quality, texture and drape, expense/affordability, size of project & length of time it will take to complete, complexity of pattern, adaptability/opportunity for customisation – we all want to make something original.

I can design patterns in most knitting techniques: colourwork, lace, modular, cables, texture stitches, garments, 3D objects etc… as well as crochet, and think all have the potential to meet these criteria and possibly satisfy different needs.

I intend to spend some time looking into this in more detail next year, however for the second artefact, I will go with what I know from personal experience: I enjoy patterns that will take me a maximum of 1 week to complete, that require some concentration but that are simple enough that you can watch tv or chat to people while you work. I like to work with natural , good quality, soft fibres as I suffer with dry skin on my hands. Colour is very important to me and whether it’s colourwork (using more that one colour yarn) or knitting with a single variegated yarn and watching the colours change, I need variation in colour.

Second Artefact:

I will create a design based on Welsh Blanket patterns from my visit to the National Wool Museum – in addition to my desire to look into my heritage and culture, the patterns lend themselves to simple to remember pattern repeats and therefore any small project such as scarves/cowls, mittens, cushions etc… Additionally, colourwork is much simpler when worked in the round and with only 2 colours! As I can’t get out to source undyed yarn yet, I will obtain some luxury yarn from my local yarn shop (LYS in Ravelry speak!) and do my bit to support local independent businesses at this time.

60 second film “Fabric of Life”

I hope the film conveys the concept of my bowl. I would have liked it to have been larger and, were it not for unforseen circumstances,  I would have had time to achieve this.

I was able to make the films in the classroom and office space myself,  thanks to my husband and sister in law (she’s a secondary school art teacher). I had been concerned about trying to find stock video but was able to film exactly what I wanted myself.

I am a little disappointed with the video editing,  but I  did the best I could with my mobile phone and the Power Director app. As I am considering making video tutorials going forward,  this is something I need more practice at. Perhaps the use of a head cam would have given a clearer sense of my contemplative crocheting rather than a third party filming me. This would also be essential for tutorials.

I think the overall effect is a little melancholy and eerie.  This was intentional at the time as I was feeling down, but in retrospect I think I was going for more nostalgic than creepy! Whilst the mechanical version of “Hey Jude” by the Beatles is a sleep inducing lullaby to me as I recorded it from my childhood teddy bear, my husband (and I suspect many other viewers!) finds it terrifying and reminds him of horror movies!!! Not the effect I was aiming for!

The finished bowl would be exhibited in a gallery space with the dress attached, suspended above it as per the final frame to portray that it is a work in progress – at some point i will get back in the dress and continue crocheting the fabric of my life around me until I am fully cocooned.

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